Hopefully this will explain some of the madness behind the different grind heights I offer.
Bear in mind that steel thickness and the shape of the blade will play a big part in how a specific grind will perform. For example 1/8" steel combined with a full height grind will be an unparalleled slicer but will be very weak at the edge and tip. The same full height grind on 1/4" thick steel would be much, much tougher but wouldn't be as good at slicing.
Also height of a blade plays a part. The taller the blade the thinner any given grind will be when compared to a shorter knife. For example a varied grind on a Niangua river would be tougher but not as good at slicing as a Dogwood with a varied grind. The varied grind on the dogwood will have a much wider angle than on the shorter Niangua, making it a higher grind at the tip.
This grind is not good for much of anything in my opinion except for knives made from thin stock and narrow blades or large chopping knives. Even then it's still not a great performer.
Huge amount of metal behind the edge makes this grind the strongest for any kind of hard use task. This grind resists chipping or rolling better than any other, great for toughness. Makes for the strongest tip of all the grinds
It's strength is a trade off in the slicing ability department. This is the worst slicer of the bunch by far and due toe the large flat sides it's pretty terrible at batoning also. It's not even great for chopping knives because it doesn't allow the knife to bite very deep. This grind can be more challenging for a beginner to sharpen easily.
Has more strength at the edge and point than a full height grind. The tip is plenty strong for drilling. It's also a far, far better slicer than the 1/4 height grind. But still not great.
It's sort of in the middle of everything. Not great at any one task but not bad either. I would say that I believe it's the toughest of the practical grinds and that's it's best asset. Practical meaning useful as a knife unlike the 1/4 height grind.
This grind is an amazing slicer. The best choice for a skinning/game knife bar none. It takes a scary sharp edge so easily that it's a great grind to learn convex sharpening with. Combined it's geometry and thinness at the edge the full height is the epitome of "wicked sharp". The Full height in most cases is what I consider the best overall grind for a do it all belt knife.
(This is the grind that I almost always use on my personal knives.)
Depending on the profile of the knife a full height grind can have a weak tip. That weakness gets greater when you get thinner stock. But with a little common sense drilling with the tip is no problem at all. And if you never pry with it it should do just fine also. Again, it all depends on what pattern you pick and what thickness of steel you want, that will dictate how strong the tip will be.
After years of using a full height grind in the woods I can honestly say that's the only weakness I know of.
The low grind height near the ricasso area is very much like the 1/4 to 1/2 height grind, meaning it's super strong and it acts like a Scandi grind in that area. This is an advantage in a woods knife as much of the notching/shaving (feather stick) work is done right in this spot. This is a great grind for those people who come from the scandi grind background and experience to try. It gives them a similar feel to what they are used to where the grind is low and gives them better cutting ability toward the tip than are accustomed to with the scandi grind. The tip, with it's full height characteristics, excels at slicing when skimming off extra wood or slicing potatoes around the campfire.
Only one that I know of, the tip is not very strong when used with certain patterns. It has the same characteristics at the tip as the full height grind. But with a little common sense drilling with the tip is no problem at all. And if you never pry with it it should do just fine also. Again, it all depends on what pattern you pick and what thickness of steel you want, that dictates how strong the tip will be.
The idea of the grind is that for large chopping knives it gives you lots of strength toward the tip and where most of the chopping will be done. The part of the edge near the handle rarely gets used with large choppers and this grind changes that. With a near full height grind in this spot it is possible to use it for finer work like shaving feathers for a fire making or for using as a draw knife. This grind makes a chopper twice as useful without sacrificing chopping ability.
You don't get the extreme cutting ability or "bite" at the tip that some like. As with most everything in knife making it's a trade off. For the benefit of increased toughness you sacrifice some of the deep cutting ability at the tip.